Glaze Question - Hi I love your site. Truly informative for me, a beginner, redoing my home to the eyecatching techniques available today...I live in coastal florida and since the holidays have had to rip down all the wallpaper i had put up several years ago due to mold growing (what a surprise) behind the panels since the recent hurricanes...I have plastered the walls in a freeform texture design, and want to prime, base paint and glaze for an old world motif...ok, now to my question...do you know of a formula for me to make my own glazes? I know ive seen it somewhere, but do you think i can find it now that i need it? Any info would be much appreciated...
Reply: 3 parts glaze to 1 part paint, darker colors are less viscous and may need less glaze.
Painting a Basecoat - When painting a basecoat it is important to prime the walls properly first and make sure they are free of dirt and debris. Next, patch any holes with spackle and sand smooth with low grit sandpaper when dry. Add texture if needed to repaired areas and let dry. You may then choose to " cut in " the base color around the doors, windows, ceiling line,ect. If your not as good as you would like to be with the cut-in brush you can also " tape-off " with low or medium adhesion tape (blue-tape form Home Depot works nicely). Then, choose a good primer. I like Zinser Bullseye 1-2-3 for oil or water-based surfaces. Apply evenly, one or two coats depending on the needed coverage. When priming for a darker basecoat color, have the paint supplier tint the primer for you. This will save you from painting endless coats of red paint over your bright white primer. While your at the store make sure to pick up some paint sticks, you'll need them, and they are free.
Painting Coverage - Acrylic primer 106-170 sq.ft. per quart, oil-based primer 160 sq.ft. per quart, oil-based eggshell 160 sq.ft. per quart, and oil-based gloss 180 sq.ft. per quart.
Priming Masonite - As far as painting on hardboard or masonite board, I like to prime with gesso in fine layers, sanding in between each layer, this makes is smooth and waterproof. You can roll it on and create a slight texture, brush it on and leave faint brush marks, or thin it with water and airbrush it on for the super smooth look. I've experimented with doing different grounds on different parts of my paintings. For example: using a brush and straight gesso to paint the wave strokes for the waves, maybe a smooth ground for the sky, and a rolled texture for the beach. You just have to tape off areas sometimes and put a little more time into your preparation before you get to the really fun stuff, the color!
Scumble Oil Glaze - The standard glaze mixture is 50% mineral spirits and 50% glaze. Any Artists' oil color can then be added. Oil-based scumble glazes are essential for faux finishes like marbling, woodgraining, sponging, dragging, ragging, rag rolling, colorwashing, combing, and stippling that require a longer "open" time and are more easily manipulated than water-based (acrylic) scumble glazes.
Scumble Water-Based Glaze - There are premixed commercial water-based glazes available. These glazes would, of course, be mixed with water-based paints. Mix 1/3 paint, 1/3 water, and 1/3 water-based glaze.
Vinegar Graining - Vinegar graining is used to simulate the look of wood. It dries to a murky, matte finish. It can be varnished to a higher sheen when finished. The vinegar glaze consists of 1 tblsp. pure universal pigment, 4 fl. oz. malt vinegar, and 1/3 tsp. sugar. The glaze is brushed on and corks or plasticine are rolled over the glaze to create patterns and movement mimicking woodgraining.